How did American fashion change from the early to the late nineteenth century quizlet?
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The Age of the City, post Civil War pages 487-508 Show Terms in this set (24)Before 1880 immigrants poured in from Canada, Mexico, Latin America, and -particularly on the West Coast- China and Japan. Although, the majority came from Europe. After 1880, the flow of new arrivals began to largely include people from southern and eastern Europe for the first time, some coming from Italy, Greece, Slovakia, Russia (Jewsish), Armenia, and more. They were attracted to the United States due to capitalism and also being pushed out of their own countries. Sets with similar termsRecommended textbook solutionsU.S. History1st EditionJohn Lund, Paul S. Vickery, P. Scott Corbett, Todd Pfannestiel, Volker Janssen 567 solutions  America's History for the AP Course8th EditionEric Hinderaker, James A. Henretta, Rebecca Edwards, Robert O. Self 470 solutions
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Terms in this set (321)Why do people wear clothes? Protection Protection According to weather, your occupation (firefighter) Status
Graduation statue you wear certain attire, showing upper class status you would wear certain attire Modesty Different cultures have different ideas of what's modest Decoration Expressing individuality Most basic motivation for dress? Decoration - Looking at different cultures they have different forms of decoration Type of dress worn may be limited by Style must permit required activities Type of dress worn may be limited by... Availability of materials Costume Word used in museums and by historians who study what people wear Dress Anything individuals do to modify the body (piercing is modifying the body) Dress can be divided between 2 different kinds of clothing Draped and tailored clothing Draped clothing Woven fabric wrapped around body. Loosely fitted, good for warm climates
Tailored clothing Cut and sewn, close-fitting, good for colder climates Technology limits or expands dress options It's a slower process, more expensive, not available to the masses because it's more expensive - explains the status of people wearing it Technology
limits or expands dress options Made at a faster rate Technology limits or expands dress options Powering looms to make large scale textiles at at a faster speed, more available so you can lower the price. Social mores and customs may limit or expand clothing choice She wanted to develop clothing where women had more freedom (didn't care on) Underlying themes related to dress evident in historic costume Recurring or unifying subject or idea Historic Dress themes Social Life Historic Dress themes With certain groups of people you might dress a certain way apart from when you are going out at night with a different group of people Historic Dress themes Groups of people dress differently depending on their status in society Historic Dress themes 1940's women started wearing pants, also women want to show the shape of the body, whereas men show strength within their clothes Historic Dress themes Changes and/or patterns in social behavior (i.e. hippies) Functions
of Dress Women dress differently than the men Function of Dress: Designation of Status Marital status indicated by customs of dress Functions of Dress: Designation of Status Restrict use
or purchase of luxury goods Designation of Status Police, firefighters, postal workers, clergy Marital statue indication by customs of dress Wedding ring Identification of Group Membership Being able to show what group you belong to (Amish have a certain style of dress and/or punk or goth style tribes) Ceremonial Certain style of dress for a ceremony (wedding, baptism, funeral, etc) Enhancement of Sexual Attractiveness More common for women James Laver - Costume Historian Women's fashion changes result of "shifting erogenous zones" Men Enhancement of Sexual Attractiveness More about being strong, a force, a leader (seeing more broad shoulders in mens wear) Dress Theme: Clothing as a means of social communication Dress a silent language to knowledgeable people Aspects of social organization shown in dress Garments worn by religious leaders distinguish them Politics: Leaders as Style Setters Have the public eye on the internet, in speeches, images, television etc. Politics: Leaders as Style Setters Leaders wearing garments that become popular based off of coverage Politics: Leaders as Style Setters Laws
restricting items of dress, to desire to imitate clothing worn by political leader Dress Theme War may introduce new apparel Dress Theme War may restrict access to materials needed for apparel Dress Theme Economic events - result of political policy or unexpected occurrences 1930s Depression - Shift from ornate, decorative clothing to more subdued styles Technology: The product of Textile and Apparel transportation, communications, production (may influence dress)
Communication: The Dissemination of Styles Information about dress transmitted through media Cross-Cultural Influences in Dress Evident in history of Western dress Cross-Cultural Influences in Dress Styles incorporated components from several cultures Cross-Cultural Influences in Dress "Elements of dress of one culture incorporated into dress of another" (Erekosima and Eicher, 1981). Cultural Authentication--Dashiki Original style or ensemble usually changed Rarely entire garments or ensembles adopted Dashiki adopted in 1960s by Peace Corps members in West African Clothing as an Art Form Grows out of the zeitgeist Zeitgeist— "spirit of the times" Mixture of social, psychological and aesthetic factors Zeitgeist Art forms from same era may display similar qualities Theme: Clothing as Art Form Relationship between costume of an era and the arts Theme: Clothing as an Art Form Influential designers
Revival of interest in earlier styles Revivals of past styles result from: Interest in ideas and/or art from earlier period Popularity of films or books From political events Fashion Fashion—style shared by many for short period of time Phenomenon
of Fashion in Western Dress clothing prevalent in Western Europe and Euro-America since Middle Ages (300-1500 AD) Fashion a characteristic Fashionable dress worn by affluent people Folk Dress or Costume Worn by European peasant class Farmer or agricultural worker Lived in rural areas or villages 18th Century 1700-1800 Curves slender and delicate 1770-mid 1800: Neoclassical art style dominates Revival of classical styles 1st in art, architecture, furniture, then on women's dress Historical Background—France Louis 15th became king, 5 yrs old; great-grandson of Louis 14th Historical Background—France Regency period, Louis 15th too young to rule alone; lived in Paris Historical Background—France Age 13 moved to Versailles, palace again center of royal life Historical
Background—France Madame Pompadour official mistress of Louis 15th Historical Background—France Major influence on clothing, art styles Styles named after her: fans, hairdos, dresses, dishes, sofas, beds, chairs, and rose porcelain pattern Madame Pompadour hairstyle Pompadour (MORE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND ON SLIDES) .... England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms Lounging clothing England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms Slightly more formal outfits for daytime or evening wear England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms Most formal evening dress England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms Dressing gown or informal robe worn indoors England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms Wore while having wig powered; kept powder off clothes England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms Man who paid lots of attention to his dress England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms Clothing worn around house England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms Riding costume; tailor-made costume England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms Petticoat England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms Garment we call "coat" England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms Not a woman's dress; term for man's coat or children's dress The Directoire Period (1790-1800) = [DP] Includes French Revolution and establishment of Directory—a 5-man government 1800-1820: The Empire Period = {EP] Napoleon Bonaparte head of state in France Title of his era, Napoleonic Empire French Revolution Significant event marking turn from 18th to 19th Century Supporters of Revolution... adopted dress that symbolized their political views Adopted dress that symbolized their political views
Red cap of liberty Adopted dress that symbolized their political views "without knee breeches" Adopted dress that symbolized their political views Rosette
type ornament Sometimes you might also see them wearing.... sashes to show that they are representing revolution 1790-1800: By end of Revolution and establishment of Directoire.... women's silhouette changed By 1790 - There's more volume in the front bodes of the dress. By 1800 - It's more ancient times inspired. Higher waistline - no hoops - more of a natural silhouette. Merveilleuses (Marvelous Ones)— Female fashion extremists Incroyables (Incredible Ones)— Male fashion extremists Fashion echoed the Revolution cut short; done before guillotine (where you are beheaded) Fashion echoed the Revolution worn around neck like a cut mark (like your head being cut out) France: The Empire 1799: Napolean Bonaparte; major general, hero of Paris Staged a coup, overthrew Directoire 1804: Napolean crowned "Emperor of the French" France: The Empire styles disappeared; considered immoral England (dates) King George III periodically deranged; inherited disease porphyria 1810: Prince of Wales named as Regent for his father Fashionable friends set upper class styles; English court center of fashion England at war with France; peace with defeat at Waterloo (1815) The United States Clothing styles similar to Europe Native Americans, Europeans had frequent contact Europeans traded colored band blankets; made into coats by Native Americans Native American moccasins adopted by settlers 1800-1820 High waisted, straight silhouette, called the Empire Line 1800-1820 shape/length/neckline cont... Line for Emperor Napolean Pantalettes Long, straight, white drawers Pantalettes description... Trimmed with lace, ruffles or pleats at hem Chemise worn over pantalettes Chemise cont... Chemise
has low, square neckline Corset (stays) worn over Chemise Corset cont... Corset straight in line like dresses; no waistline indentation (more comfortable - not as tightly tied) Round Gowns Dresses not open at front to show petticoat - (the dress goes all the way around - completely closed) - can't see petticoat because there's not opening Neckline is similar... Sleeves are pulled in at different intervals and puff sections occur (early
1800's) Variety of sleeve and neckline styles in this time period Spencer short jacket, ended at empire waistline just under bosom
Pelisse Coat-like garment with empire silhouette (empire silhouette waistline but it's full length) Shawl Often with the kashmir pattern (worn by most women)
Women's hats Poke Bonnet Women's Accessories Reticule - Small handbag 1800-1820 Men's Dress Replaced knee breeches except for court dress. (for all social classes they became very popular) - Started with lower class and came up into upper class style 1800-1820 Men's dress Did not change. Men wearing white shirt and white undergarments 1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress Trousers had straps that fit under instep to keep them from riding up 1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress Trousers, (collar of white shirt) shirt, waistcoat, and coat 1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress ...cut full with high, standing collars 1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress
Sleeveless waistcoat worn over shirt (now) 1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress One style curved gradually back from waist into 2 tails 1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress Cut-in jacket - rounded or square space at front. Tails began where cut-in ended 1800-1820 Men's men wore overcoats or capes (more volume in coats for the men) 1800-1820 Men's dress worn at home Dressing gowns, or banyans, still worn at home Accessories for Men 1800-1820 Bicorne: hat with 2 corners (one end in front and other corner in the top) 1800-1820 Children's Dress Girls dresses similar to adult women Empire period style lines are revived periodically Empire waist wedding dresses 1700-1800 Advances in Textile Technology The shuttle helps with weaving 1733 Mechanized yarn spinning invented; increased speed Men created a yarn spinning
machine 1700-1800 Cotton at first... Really popular at the time 1700-1800 Made cotton fabrics cheaper...
This is why they were made less expensive so more people had access to the fabric and could buy the fabric 1700-1800 The American Colonies Imported British goods, clothing; followed European fashions 1700-1800 Clothes made by copying... fashion plates or fashion babies - fashion dolls made in Paris (displays of fashion and not usually played with by children) Fashion plates or fashion babies showed what? These dolls showed what the current fashions were 1776: Colonists declared independence from British rule Sources of Costume Evidence ...a fashion plate. We don't know the exact colors, but comparing them to garments that are surviving, you can guess which colors were normally used. Fashion plates Illustrations - They were put into a fashion magazines 18th Century: Men's fashion changes not extreme Drawers (type of underwear worn under breeches), shirt, waistcoat (vest - much longer), outer coat (brown velvet fabric - on image), breeches (pants), hose (stockings) and shoes Boot Cuff Large cuff on end of sleeve on the outer coat 1700-1800 18th Century the silhouette and shape 1750 Clothing fit The fit of the clothing gets a lot slimmer around 1750 (it's a better fit) 18th Century Drawers (underwear) Functional equivalent of medieval braies Worn next to skin under breeches 1700-1750: White shirts had... ...ruffled frill at front and end of sleeves 1700-1750 clothing descriptions Men and women had
a lot of ruffles on their clothes 1700-1750 Rich People Formal wear coats lavishly embroidery; made of luxurious silks or velvet 1700-1750 Ditto suit Coat, waistline, and breeches made out of the same fabric 1700-1750 Frock Coat Casual, looser fit coat with flat, turned down collar. Worn for less formal occasions; not embroidered. Has a flat turned down collar. Worn for everyday occasions (less formal) 1750 Changes Waistcoat is more full and longer 1750 Changes Waistcoat looks more like a vest - It's shorter (compared to before 1750). The coats also start to curve more towards the back. 1750: Waistcoats got... ...shorts, beeches closely fitted, outer coat narrowed and curved back from the front First half of 1750's... Looser fit 1750-1800 Frock coats and format coats 1750-1800: "Macaronis"—English men who adopted French and Italian fashions They are trying to keep up with the current fashions 1750-1800 Banyans Loose colorful dressing gowns; worn at home and out-of-doors (on your estate); Has an Asian and Middle East influence - Comfortable and casual - Just for relaxing When and what do men wear when they take off their wig? When relaxing, men may take off wig and wear embroidered nightcap 1700s: Important accessories for men Tricorne - 3 Cornered Hat 1700s: Shortgowns Straight, un-fitted, washable tops worn with petticoat 1700 - 1720: Previous styles continue There's more volume at the hips 1700 - 1720: Previous styles continue Supported wide skirt shape; called hoops in England - Around 1720 it begins to get wider and forms a wide skirt shape 18th Century: Undergarments Chemise (white cotton garment which goes on first), stays (corset), under petticoat (put it over the Chemise), and a hoop (goes over the petticoat) 1715-1730: - Loose fit
1715-1730: Sacque Wide, unfitted gown, worn unbelted and loose Cont on Sacque... Worn over dome-shaped hoop 1715-1730: Pet-en-Lair Loose hip-length top; worn with separate, gathered skirt (wasn't considered work wear - casual wear that you could wear with a skirt) - Could be made from cotton or silk 1715 - 1730: Hairstyles: They were... Simple 1710: Fontage style (in front of the
head made out of lace and it stood straight up) out of fashion 1715-1730: Pinner Cap Circular cap, single or double frills around edge (a circular cap) - These were popular 1715-1730: Mob cap High, puffed-out crown. Made out of white cotton fabric, or could be linen. Straw and silk hats also worn 1730-1760: Skirts less... ...round, wider from side to side 1730-1760 Robe a l' anglaise: Gown with close fit in from and back 1730-1760 Robe a la Francaise: Gown with full unfitted pleats at shoulder back; fitted front (it is open, so you can see the stomacher and the petticoat [contrasting]) 1730-1760 Both robe styles worn in... England, France, and America 1730-1760 Gowns had... open bodices and skirts; decorative stomacher, petticoat displayed Stomacher is the top piece in the center (yellow) - It's a centerpiece and is covering your undergarments - TIes on the side of the stomacher or buttons and it's tied to the inside of the gown] V-Shaped stomacher highly ornamented with
embroidery, lace, ribbon (these will all add to your status if you have orme money to add more to the gown) Engageants One or more ruffles at end of sleeve (white section and ruffles at the end of the sleeves of the gown) Sleeves ended below elbow (Created by Marie Ant.) Hairstyle: Tete de mouton Hairstyle of close, tight curls, "sheep's head" Shepherdess Hat Large, flat straw hat; low crown, wide brim (trickle up trend - Hat worn by lower class women working in the fields (protect you from the sun) and Maria A. sees this and starts to wear it and it becomes a trends. Shepherdess Hat cont..... Worn outdoors 1760-1790: Skirt fullness shifted.... ..to the back 1760-1790 Cont... Bodice front had puffed appearance
(have extra scarves around your neck and they would get tucked in the bodice fabric) 1760-1790 Polonaise Gown with overskirt puffed (puffy in the back) and looped using tapes and rings (in back) sewn into skirt and you could make it any shape you want (day wear style of dress( 1760-1790 Cloak Most practical outdoor garment to wear with wide skirts (there would be slits in them if you needed to get your arms out to do something, but there weren't normally any sleeves) 1760-1790 Calash Folding hood-like hat. Worn outdoors; fit over high hairstyles. You can fold it out and if you weren't wearing it it would collapse and fall and hang from a tie at the back of your neck 1770s Hairstyles... ...became enormous; ridiculed by cartoonists 1770s: Hair supplemented with... feathers, jewels, ribbons or hat placed on top (anything that went on the event that was going on) - Very into decorating the hair 1780s: (Created by Marie A.) Hedgehog hairstyle Hair curled full and wide around face, long locks hanging down back; hair height diminished (not popular anymore to have super tall hairstyles); large hats set on top 1780-1800: (Created by Marie A.) Chemise a la reine white muslin gown. Resembled chemise but had a waistline. 1780-1800: (Created and made popular by Marie Antoinette) Chemise a la reine Played "country folk" 1700s: Notable Women's Accessories worn under skirt for carrying items (side of skirts had slits in them so you could put your hands in them - they would carry the tie pockets here because they were tied on the inside of the waist 1700s: Notable Women's Accessories Didn't want a sigh of sun on the skin (that meant you were lower class) so they used these to block the sun 1700s: Notable Women's Accessories (or a little bit of a heel), raise feet off muddy ground 1700s: Notable Women's Accessories No air conditioning (had hand fan to help cool you off) 1700-1750: Children's Dress ...swaddled (tied very tightly in a lot of fabric
1700-1750: Children's Dress boys/girls wore skirts 1700-1750: Children's Dress boys/girls wore adult styles (wore what the adults wore) 1750-1800: Around 1750, Philosophers suggest... practical, comfortable clothing for children; better for health and development (allow them to run, move, and play) 1750-1800: So.... Stopped swaddling babies Romantic Period c. 1820 - 1850 Arts/literature—Emphasized emotion, sentiment, and feeling (a romantic time period) Romantic Period c. 1820 - 1850 rational thought (more of an imaginative time period) Historic past gave inspiration Reaction against formal Classical styles of 17th/18th centuries France (Historical dates) Monarchy 1814: Louis the 18th became king; granted written constitution In 1824, Charles 10th became king, Louis's brother July 1830: 2nd French Revolution 1830 French Revolution ...rebellious spirit of Romanticism (rebellious movement happening within the social classes) 1830 French Revolution political actions and dress (seeing popularity of red, white and blue, embellishments, sashes, etc.) 1830
French Revolution ...working-class, not fashionable men England (Historical dates) 1820: King George 4th; unpopular King 1830: William 4th succeeded his brother and becomes king 1837: William died without heir; 18 year old Victoria became queen Ruled until 1901; gave name to an age (Victorian age - Victorian houses and clothing, etc) Restored prestige of monarchy (people looked up to her - seen as a great wife who took care of children, etc) During 1800s, America expanded westward We have the development of the railroads, gold rush is on, etc Southern U.S - Cotton cultivation dominated economy.. Cotton cultivation dominated economy (The looms were
becoming more mechanized and then yarn spinning, so they needed cotton at a faster rate for fashion) 19th Century Upper-class Women (Romantic Period) ...in good health (stylish to look sickly) Circles under eyes fashionable; rice powder gave pale look (it became popular to look unhealthy) Home center of entertainment; well-to-do women hostesses for husbands 19th Century Working-Class and Pioneer Women (Romantic Period) ...lower quality fabric (clothes that you would work in - no luxury fabrics) Cotton was popular for these non luxury fabrics 19th Century Working-Class and Pioneer Women (Romantic
Period) basic fashionable silhouette (a lot of gathers and puffiness) Fashionable bonnet transformed into sunbonnet; protect from sun Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles handmade lace patterns now machine-made (go from handmade to machine made, the cost is lowered and more people can purchase it) Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles at low cost (so they become popular again) Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles ...men (not for women yet. For war times, the body measurements they already had, they started making ready made clothing for them, but the women didn't have that yet) Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles ...few ready-made garments other than corsets and cloaks 1830s: 1st... American fashion magazines published Problems with Fashion Plates ...mainstream fashion (wide and extreme fashions, like editorials nowadays) - not always the mainstream for everyday people Problems with Fashion Plates ...with water colors; less info about fabric texture (shiny? Dull? Silk? Velvet? But with oil paints you have a better idea of these) Painters run out of one color, substitute another 1840s: Photography documented how people dressed - Have a better idea of what people looked like in the clothing 1840s: Photography documented how people dressed - Just upper classes could afford to have their photo taken - so we mostly have images of upper class Historic Pieces as Costume Evidence (gives us more garments to study) - to know the actual popular colors and fabrics Historic Pieces as Costume Evidence .., ball gowns, special event clothing (special occasions) Historic Pieces as Costume Evidence ..dresses, men's and children's clothing in museum collections 1820 to 1825: Transition from... Empire silhouette to new Romantic mode 1825: Romantic Style Established Waistline moved downward inches above natural waist Large sleeves (and strange hairstyles) Skirts wide and shorter (you can almost see the ankle) 19th Century: Drawers more common; worn by all social classes Undergarments
stayed the same - Drawers are the same in all classes of women. 19th Century: Chemise (still popular) ... ..next layer; wide & short sleeved 1820-1835: Stays... ..laced
tightly; emphasis on small waist 19th Century: Corset cover or.. ..camisole worn over corset 19 Century: Full, starched.. petticoats supported wider
skirt 1820-1835: Undergarments held out skirts and sleeves In order to get big sleeve shape, you wore sleeve pads. You tie around your shoulder or upper arm and this would go inside sleeve to help your sleeves stick out. 1820-1835: Bodices had... wide, V-shaped revers (extra piece of fabric that goes over bodice and sleeves) from shoulder to waist in front/back 1828: - Skirts start to show feet/ankles 1830s: Pelerine wide, cape-like collar (on top of bodice) Extended over shoulders and down across chest Notice V-waistline 1820-1835: Several sleeve styles Full to wrist, tied to intervals with ribbons/bands (you get puffy sections from pulling in the fabric) - larger puffs are at the top and then it continues down the sleeve 1820-1835: Several sleeve styles Full from shoulder to elbow (giant puff at top of sleeve) Fitted from elbow to wrist 1820-1835: Several sleeve styles Full at shoulder; gradual decrease in size (comes in and out of fashion - doesn't last
long) 1820-1835: Several sleeve styles - Extremely full from shoulder to wrist 1820-1835: Pelisse—preferred ... ... outdoor garment (coat) 1820-1835: Popular Hairstyles tight curls around face; pulled into knot/bun in back 1820-1835: Popular Hairstyles Style á la Chinoise (ah la shen-wahs) - tight curls around forehead and temples, flowers, and a tight knot on the top of the head (sometimes fake/add on hair) 1820-1835: Popular Hats Day caps worn indoors Bonnets framed face, tied under chin 1820-1835: Popular Hats Soft fabric crown, stiff brim 1820-1835: Popular Hats Berets and turbans worn (Second portion of time) 1836-1850: Sleeve.. ...fullness moved down arm; to the bottom of the sleeve 1836-1850: Trimmings include ruchings, ... ...flounces, scallops, cording (decorative embellishment that is more narrow and has a thickness to it) 1836-1850:... Some skirts many rows of flounces Evening—Off shoulder necklines (ONLY evening) 1836-1850: Bertha wide, deep collar followed neckline 1836-1850: Popular Hairstyles and Hats Hairstyle with sausage curls Accessories 19th Century Chatelaines: Carry in handbag or attach in waistline of petticoats - had sewing tools that you might need 1820-1850: Men's silhouette... ..faint echo of women's silhouette (volume at shoulders and hips) 1820-1850: Men's Narrow waist (men wore corsets at this time to have a narrow waist) 1820-1850: Men's flared coat skirt (man in center and little boy are showing this style - seam at waistline and then it flares out) 1820-1850: Sleeves Slight fullness of sleeves 1829-1850: Corsets and padding worn.. (wanted chest to come out a little bit, as well as padding in legs) 1820-1840: Frock coats ... worn mostly for daytime (casual look - blue jacket below), skirt extended below waist 1820-1840: Tailcoats.. worn most for evening (green jacket) Short in front with extended tails at back Waistcoat, trousers, shirt and drawers also worn 1820-1840 Cont... Garments that are made to be worn specifically for daytime and other for evening 1840-1850: Men's styles, like women's... became more subdued (less volume, more fitted) 1820-1850: Outdoors men wore... greatcoats (overcoats) or cloaks for more formal occasions (longer than a cape) 1829-1850 Men's Accessories Top hat 1820-1850: Children ... dressed like adults. Small boys wore
skirts until age 4 or 5. North American Slave Clothing Info from newspaper notices, interviews, diaries, journals, plantation inventories, photos on what they were wearing (in case they ran away, they could send out a notice with this information) Negro cloth coarse, white homespun fabric (mostly cotton) North American Slave Clothing ...not dyed; some slaves dyed fabric with natural dyestuffs (plants and berries) North American Slave Clothing ...were dressed more fashionable (than field slaves) North American Slave Clothing Slaves tried to conform to current fashion (field slaves saw what the house slaves and plantation owners were wearing, and they tried to keep up with that fashion) North American Slave Clothing cont....
Skirt hoops made from grapevines, thin tree limbs or stiff paper Runaway slaves dressed like freed slaves (fashionable - to appear free so they wouldn't be caught) Took more fashionable clothing on their journey (to look free) Once freed, dressed as other Americans The Crinoline Period c. 1850-1869 Waist is in a V 1857: Innovation of the... ..Cage Crinoline or Hoop Skirt. Contributed to continued popularity of wide skirts 1857: Cartoonists... ..found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor Before cage crinoline... ..women's rights advocates attempted to reform women's dress with bloomer dress. (They were trying to reform what was fashionable) Amelia Bloomer Amelia Bloomer (in left image) What women thought at the time about the bloomer dress Fashion women at time thought this looked ridiculous and it didn't take off as a fashion Bloomer dress: Few women... ...outside feminist movement wore bloomers. Feminists willingly discarded Bloomer costume. Feminists: They discarded it because they weren't taken very seriously if they wore it (seen as not fashionable, not following trends) - So they went back to the regular fashion Crinoline Period made of cotton with crotch left open, knee-length , and trimmed at hem Crinoline
Period worn over the under drawers. Now with shorter sleeves and wider neckline Crinoline Period Widely accepted underclothing; Combined the chemise and drawers into 1 garment Crinoline Period ...went the corset Crinoline Period ...over the corset Crinoline Period ...the hoop was added Crinoline Period Single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel. Crinoline Period ..a full gathered or pleated skirt and dropped shoulder Crinoline Period Evening
dresses had off-the-shoulder neckline, often with a wide bertha (wide collar around the neckline [popular]) Crinoline Period Striped or Kashmir shawls, short jackets, cape or mantle (short or long)
Crinoline Period 1800 (empire period) - Shawls (also popular in romantic period) - They don't go away Short jackets become popular (works with the big skirts) (middle image) Mantels (far right image) - shorter version of a cape Crinoline Period Accessories A way of mixing and matching outfits to make them look different (attach to the inside of sleeves) Crinoline Period Accessories There's a little bit of a heel Crinoline Period Accessories Very fashionable to be as pale as possible (no hard labor - protect yourself from the sun) Crinoline Period Accessories This one is closed (there's a slit in the center on one side and two rings) - to close the slit, put the two rings in the center and the coins going to the ends (you can hang it over your wrist or your belt) Crinoline Period
Accessories A lot of gold jewelry - bracelets and necklaces Crinoline Period under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt. Crinoline Period Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat. Crinoline Period ...trousers, held up by suspenders Crinoline Period a waistcoat/vest Crinoline Period - Tails in back Crinoline Period variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats Crinoline Period Also in romantic period Crinoline Period Because brim is so big if you tried to fall asleep, the brim would wake you up because it would hit the table Crinoline Period Fits tight against head Crinoline Period Newer fashion Crinoline Period New fashion (Western style - because there was more travel to the Western areas) Crinoline Period New fashion (could be embroidered or plaid) Crinoline Period Watch fob could be made out of hair Crinoline Period Popular and also different styles of bow ties
Crinoline Period Boy and girl toddles wore skirts Crinoline Period British-born Charles Worth began high fashion dressmaking Crinoline Period adapted from red shirts worn by Italian General Garibaldi's soldiers Crinoline
Period Adopted by American Civil War regiment, then women's fashion Crinoline Period Outfits related to activities was common The Bustle Period c. 1870-1890 Named after the predominant feature of women's dresses The Bustle Period Fabrics better, less expensive Power looms replaced hand looms Synthetic dyes replaced natural dyes Silk weighted with salts; added body Wears out fabric; damages yarns The Bustle Period - Wide use of sewing machines (invented 1800s) The Bustle Period ..workers and consumers for the clothing industry The Bustle Period ...new ways of selling clothing The Bustle Period Death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria wore mourning dress rest of her life Deep mourning for year + day The Bustle Period Black crepe-covered dress, maybe black underwear Black gloves and a black crepe veil worn when in public (seldom) Wedding band, mourning brooch; lock of loved one's hair; black jet jewelry The Bustle
Period Underdrawers The Bustle Period Combination—widely accepted underclothing; combined drawers/chemise into 1 garment Bustle Bustle—new structure to support skirt with full back 1870-1890 Three different bustle shapes worn created by manipulating full skirt in a waterfall-like effect, often with a train; 1870-1878: Off-shoulder necklines and
sleeveless or short sleeves or elbow-length sleeves with ruffles 1878-1883: Sheath or cuirass bodice—2nd bustle type; Long jacket ending at point in front Long heavily trained skirts fit smoothly over hips Semi-circular frame supported trailing skirts Decoration concentrated low, back of skirt 1883-1890: Final bustle type rigid and shelf-like 1883-1890: Bodices fitted jacket-style with ... ...short basques, polonaise bodices or belted over blouses Sets with similar termscte351281 terms cwetzel93 History of Dress Exam 293 terms hdhassebrock Fashion, Exam 131 terms caroline_elliott Survey of Fashion - Renaissance21 terms lisagail02 Other sets by this creatorCOMM Theory 3401 Midterm111 terms crosby_reisch Spanish Vocab Final Exam10 terms crosby_reisch Spanish Final 300171 terms crosby_reisch Spanish Listening Final 1003103 terms crosby_reisch Verified questionsWORLD HISTORY How did the Israeli-Palestinian conflict affect Lebanon and why? Verified answer
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