How did American fashion change from the early to the late nineteenth century quizlet?

The Age of the City, post Civil War pages 487-508

Terms in this set [24]

Before 1880 immigrants poured in from Canada, Mexico, Latin America, and -particularly on the West Coast- China and Japan. Although, the majority came from Europe. After 1880, the flow of new arrivals began to largely include people from southern and eastern Europe for the first time, some coming from Italy, Greece, Slovakia, Russia [Jewsish], Armenia, and more. They were attracted to the United States due to capitalism and also being pushed out of their own countries.

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Terms in this set [321]

Why do people wear clothes?

Protection
Status
Modesty
Decoration

Protection

According to weather, your occupation [firefighter]

Status

Graduation statue you wear certain attire, showing upper class status you would wear certain attire

Modesty

Different cultures have different ideas of what's modest

Decoration

Expressing individuality

Most basic motivation for dress?

Decoration - Looking at different cultures they have different forms of decoration

Type of dress worn may be limited by
Function:

Style must permit required activities

Type of dress worn may be limited by...

Availability of materials
[Filipino women wearing hats from bamboo fibers. What people have access to to make the garments]

Costume

Word used in museums and by historians who study what people wear

Dress

Anything individuals do to modify the body [piercing is modifying the body]
Anything they attach to the body [earrings]
Anything they place around the body [clothing]

Dress can be divided between 2 different kinds of clothing

Draped and tailored clothing

Draped clothing

Woven fabric wrapped around body. Loosely fitted, good for warm climates
- There were changing ways of wrapping it around the body
-Different ways to wrap the clothing based off of statue [boy vs. older man]
-Had metal pins to attach fabric

Tailored clothing

Cut and sewn, close-fitting, good for colder climates
- Tighter fit so it keeps you warmer

Technology limits or expands dress options
Made by hand [lace]

It's a slower process, more expensive, not available to the masses because it's more expensive - explains the status of people wearing it

Technology limits or expands dress options
Mechanized

Made at a faster rate

Technology limits or expands dress options
Powered of electricity

Powering looms to make large scale textiles at at a faster speed, more available so you can lower the price.

Social mores and customs may limit or expand clothing choice
i.e. Amelia Bloomer [mid 1800s]

She wanted to develop clothing where women had more freedom [didn't care on]

Underlying themes related to dress evident in historic costume
Theme:

Recurring or unifying subject or idea

Historic Dress themes

Social Life
Social Class Structure
Social Roles, including gender
"Lifestyles"

Historic Dress themes
Social Life

With certain groups of people you might dress a certain way apart from when you are going out at night with a different group of people

Historic Dress themes
Social Class Structure

Groups of people dress differently depending on their status in society

Historic Dress themes
Social Roles including gender

1940's women started wearing pants, also women want to show the shape of the body, whereas men show strength within their clothes

Historic Dress themes
Lifestyles

Changes and/or patterns in social behavior [i.e. hippies]

Functions of Dress
Designation of Gender Differences

Women dress differently than the men
They don't intersect until later in the 1900's

Function of Dress: Designation of Status

Marital status indicated by customs of dress

Functions of Dress: Designation of Status
Sumptuary Laws

Restrict use or purchase of luxury goods
Clothing, furnishings
[Toga only worn by male Roman citizen]

Designation of Status
Occupation Status

Police, firefighters, postal workers, clergy

Marital statue indication by customs of dress

Wedding ring

Identification of Group Membership

Being able to show what group you belong to [Amish have a certain style of dress and/or punk or goth style tribes]

Ceremonial

Certain style of dress for a ceremony [wedding, baptism, funeral, etc]

Enhancement of Sexual Attractiveness

More common for women
Small waist i.e.
Seeing more leg [1920's]

James Laver - Costume Historian

Women's fashion changes result of "shifting erogenous zones"
Different parts of body selectively uncovered to attract men

Men Enhancement of Sexual Attractiveness

More about being strong, a force, a leader [seeing more broad shoulders in mens wear]

Dress Theme: Clothing as a means of social communication

Dress a silent language to knowledgeable people

Aspects of social organization shown in dress

Garments worn by religious leaders distinguish them

Politics: Leaders as Style Setters
Political leaders have strong impact

Have the public eye on the internet, in speeches, images, television etc.

Politics: Leaders as Style Setters
Directly/indirectly affect clothing styles

Leaders wearing garments that become popular based off of coverage

Politics: Leaders as Style Setters
Political Influences may range from...

Laws restricting items of dress, to desire to imitate clothing worn by political leader
[Obama's are political style setters]

Dress Theme
Politics: War and Conflict as Style Setters
War may introduce...

War may introduce new apparel
-WWI: Adoption of trench coat, items of military dress

Dress Theme
Politics: War and Conflict as Style Setters
Way may restrict...

War may restrict access to materials needed for apparel
-WWII: Nylon disappears from consumer market; Used in wartime equipment

Dress Theme
Economics: The Trade of Textiles and Apparel
Economic events -

Economic events - result of political policy or unexpected occurrences

1930s Depression -

Shift from ornate, decorative clothing to more subdued styles

Technology: The product of Textile and Apparel
Technology has impact on...

transportation, communications, production [may influence dress]
i.e. invention of sewing machine - mass production - modern fashion industry
i.e, automobile probably encouraged women to wear shorter skirts

Communication: The Dissemination of Styles

Information about dress transmitted through media
Media communicates and influences dress

Cross-Cultural Influences in Dress

Evident in history of Western dress
Dress of different culture see as attractive, interesting or useful
Incorporated into dress of local residents or visitors

Cross-Cultural Influences in Dress
Mixtures

Styles incorporated components from several cultures

Cross-Cultural Influences in Dress
Cultural Authentication

"Elements of dress of one culture incorporated into dress of another" [Erekosima and Eicher, 1981].

Cultural Authentication--Dashiki

Original style or ensemble usually changed

Rarely entire garments or ensembles adopted

Dashiki adopted in 1960s by Peace Corps members in West African

Clothing as an Art Form

Grows out of the zeitgeist

Zeitgeist— "spirit of the times"

Mixture of social, psychological and aesthetic factors

Zeitgeist

Art forms from same era may display similar qualities

Theme: Clothing as Art Form

Relationship between costume of an era and the arts

Theme: Clothing as an Art Form

Influential designers
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel [1920s]
Christian Dior after WWII—The New Look [1947]

Revival of interest in earlier styles

Revivals of past styles result from:

Interest in ideas and/or art from earlier period

Popularity of films or books

From political events

Fashion

Fashion—style shared by many for short period of time
Fashion is evident in many aspects of life

Phenomenon of Fashion in Western Dress
Western Dress

clothing prevalent in Western Europe and Euro-America since Middle Ages [300-1500 AD]

Fashion a characteristic

Fashionable dress worn by affluent people

Folk Dress or Costume
Folk Costume

Worn by European peasant class

Farmer or agricultural worker

Lived in rural areas or villages

18th Century 1700-1800
1720-1770: Rococo art style dominates

Curves slender and delicate

1770-mid 1800: Neoclassical art style dominates

Revival of classical styles 1st in art, architecture, furniture, then on women's dress

Historical Background—France
1715:

Louis 15th became king, 5 yrs old; great-grandson of Louis 14th

Historical Background—France
1715-1723

Regency period, Louis 15th too young to rule alone; lived in Paris

Historical Background—France
1723

Age 13 moved to Versailles, palace again center of royal life

Historical Background—France
1745

Madame Pompadour official mistress of Louis 15th

Historical Background—France
Major influences on....
Styles names after her....

Major influence on clothing, art styles

Styles named after her: fans, hairdos, dresses, dishes, sofas, beds, chairs, and rose porcelain pattern

Madame Pompadour hairstyle

Pompadour

[MORE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND ON SLIDES]

....

England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Undress

Lounging clothing

England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Dress

Slightly more formal outfits for daytime or evening wear

England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Full Dress

Most formal evening dress

England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Nightgown

Dressing gown or informal robe worn indoors

England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Powdering Jacket

Wore while having wig powered; kept powder off clothes

England—Men's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Beau, coxcomb, or fop

Man who paid lots of attention to his dress

England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Undress, half dress, or morning dress

Clothing worn around house

England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Habit

Riding costume; tailor-made costume

England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Coat

Petticoat

England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Greatcoat

Garment we call "coat"

England—Women's Fashionable Clothing Terms
Frock

Not a woman's dress; term for man's coat or children's dress

The Directoire Period [1790-1800] = [DP]

Includes French Revolution and establishment of Directory—a 5-man government

1800-1820: The Empire Period = {EP]

Napoleon Bonaparte head of state in France

Title of his era, Napoleonic Empire

French Revolution

Significant event marking turn from 18th to 19th Century

Supporters of Revolution...

adopted dress that symbolized their political views

Adopted dress that symbolized their political views
Bonnet Rouge

Red cap of liberty
Symbol of freedom

Adopted dress that symbolized their political views
Sans Culottes

"without knee breeches"
Trousers of working man replaced knee breeches of old regime

Adopted dress that symbolized their political views
Revolutionary Cockade

Rosette type ornament
Red, white, and blue

Sometimes you might also see them wearing....

sashes to show that they are representing revolution

1790-1800: By end of Revolution and establishment of Directoire....

women's silhouette changed

By 1790 -

There's more volume in the front bodes of the dress.

By 1800 -

It's more ancient times inspired. Higher waistline - no hoops - more of a natural silhouette.

Merveilleuses [Marvelous Ones]—

Female fashion extremists
Dresses were very long
Wore extreme styles
Long trains
Sheerest fabrics
Very low necklines
Huge, exaggerated jockey-like caps

Incroyables [Incredible Ones]—

Male fashion extremists
Waistcoats had loose fit at shoulders
[Wide lapels]
Excessively tight breeches
Cravats/neckties and collars that covered much of chin

Fashion echoed the Revolution
Haircut a la Victime

cut short; done before guillotine [where you are beheaded]

Fashion echoed the Revolution
Red velvet ribbons

worn around neck like a cut mark [like your head being cut out]

France: The Empire
DATES
1799 and 1804

1799: Napolean Bonaparte; major general, hero of Paris

Staged a coup, overthrew Directoire

1804: Napolean crowned "Emperor of the French"

France: The Empire
Merveilleuse ad Incroyable...

styles disappeared; considered immoral
Court re-established; made Paris center of power and fashion

England [dates]

King George III periodically deranged; inherited disease porphyria

1810: Prince of Wales named as Regent for his father

Fashionable friends set upper class styles; English court center of fashion

England at war with France; peace with defeat at Waterloo [1815]

The United States

Clothing styles similar to Europe

Native Americans, Europeans had frequent contact

Europeans traded colored band blankets; made into coats by Native Americans

Native American moccasins adopted by settlers

1800-1820
Dress style

High waisted, straight silhouette, called the Empire Line

1800-1820 shape/length/neckline cont...

Line for Emperor Napolean
Dress had tubular shape
Skirts reached to floor; with or without trains
Low neckline
Based on ancient Green forms

Pantalettes

Long, straight, white drawers

Pantalettes description...

Trimmed with lace, ruffles or pleats at hem
Fashionable 1809 for short time [just for a brief period of time]
Worn longer time by young girls; image 1838

Chemise

worn over pantalettes

Chemise cont...

Chemise has low, square neckline
Cut full and straight
Short, set-in sleeves

Corset [stays]

worn over Chemise

Corset cont...

Corset straight in line like dresses; no waistline indentation [more comfortable - not as tightly tied]
Pushed up breasts up and out
False bosoms made of wax or cotton
1795-1800: fashionable women stopped wearing corsets

Round Gowns

Dresses not open at front to show petticoat - [the dress goes all the way around - completely closed] - can't see petticoat because there's not opening

Neckline is similar...

Sleeves are pulled in at different intervals and puff sections occur

[early 1800's]
Sleeves and necklines

Variety of sleeve and neckline styles in this time period

Spencer

short jacket, ended at empire waistline just under bosom
Worn by both women and men
Sleeves or sleeveless
Color usually contrasted dress [white dress contrasting with a navy blue jacket] - in powerpoint
Worn indoors and outdoors

Pelisse

Coat-like garment with empire silhouette [empire silhouette waistline but it's full length]
Full length
Warm linings used in winter [fur lining if you could afford that]

Shawl

Often with the kashmir pattern [worn by most women]
Popular fashion item
Imported from India [cross cultural influence for fashion]

Women's hats

Poke Bonnet
Gypsy Hat
Day Cap
Turban
Toque

Women's Accessories

Reticule - Small handbag
Cockade Fan
Muff
Shoes - flat soles

1800-1820 Men's Dress
Trousers

Replaced knee breeches except for court dress. [for all social classes they became very popular] - Started with lower class and came up into upper class style

1800-1820 Men's dress
Underdrawers and undershirts

Did not change. Men wearing white shirt and white undergarments

1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress
Trousers

Trousers had straps that fit under instep to keep them from riding up

1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress

Trousers, [collar of white shirt] shirt, waistcoat, and coat

1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress
Shirts...

...cut full with high, standing collars
Cravats or stocks wrapped around collar

1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress
Waistcoat

Sleeveless waistcoat worn over shirt [now]

1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress
Coach fronts ended at waist. Two popular styles
Style #1

One style curved gradually back from waist into 2 tails
Tails ended slightly above knee

1800-1820 Visible elements of men's dress
Coach fronts ended at waist. Two popular styles
Style #2

Cut-in jacket - rounded or square space at front. Tails began where cut-in ended

1800-1820 Men's
For outdoors...

men wore overcoats or capes [more volume in coats for the men]

1800-1820 Men's dress worn at home

Dressing gowns, or banyans, still worn at home

Accessories for Men 1800-1820

Bicorne: hat with 2 corners [one end in front and other corner in the top]
Top hats
Spats or Gaiters: Worn over the boots - made of fabric and buttoned up the side
Boots
Cravat/Stocks

1800-1820 Children's Dress

Girls dresses similar to adult women
Boys [6/7] wore skeleton suits—Loose shirt, frilled collar, high-waisted trousers. Style began late 1700s [fairly loose - has easy movement with the body]

Empire period style lines are revived periodically
i.e.

Empire waist wedding dresses
Pantalettes to the fashion of wearing a dress with jeans

1700-1800 Advances in Textile Technology
1733 Flying shuttle invented

The shuttle helps with weaving
You can get the shuttle to go back and forth with pulleys
Automatically carried yarn across fabric
Increased weaving speed
Going through yarn faster, so how are we going to make yarn at a faster rate to make the weaving faster?
Consumed yard rapidly

1733 Mechanized yarn spinning invented; increased speed

Men created a yarn spinning machine
You have a rope of fibers [rope of wool, or linen, or cotton, etc] and to make it into a yarn you add a twist, which is what a spinning machine does [it creates the twist and turns it into a yarn]
Didn't come out until the 1760's

1700-1800 Cotton at first...

Really popular at the time

1700-1800 Made cotton fabrics cheaper...

This is why they were made less expensive so more people had access to the fabric and could buy the fabric

1700-1800 The American Colonies
Imported....

Imported British goods, clothing; followed European fashions
To have the latest fashions

1700-1800 Clothes made by copying...

fashion plates or fashion babies - fashion dolls made in Paris [displays of fashion and not usually played with by children]

Fashion plates or fashion babies showed what?

These dolls showed what the current fashions were
Imported from Europe to the American colonies so they could keep up with the latest fashions

1776: Colonists declared

independence from British rule

Sources of Costume Evidence
Throughout the 1700's our idea of what was worn, we have more sources to know what people were wearing
One form of evidence is...

...a fashion plate. We don't know the exact colors, but comparing them to garments that are surviving, you can guess which colors were normally used.

Fashion plates

Illustrations - They were put into a fashion magazines

18th Century: Men's fashion changes not extreme
Elements of dress

Drawers [type of underwear worn under breeches], shirt, waistcoat [vest - much longer], outer coat [brown velvet fabric - on image], breeches [pants], hose [stockings] and shoes

Boot Cuff

Large cuff on end of sleeve on the outer coat

1700-1800 18th Century
Main changes in elements of clothing for men are

the silhouette and shape

1750 Clothing fit

The fit of the clothing gets a lot slimmer around 1750 [it's a better fit]

18th Century Drawers [underwear]

Functional equivalent of medieval braies

Worn next to skin under breeches
Closed with drawstring, buttons
Cotton or wool
Knee length [didn't show under the breeches]

1700-1750: White shirts had...

...ruffled frill at front and end of sleeves

1700-1750 clothing descriptions

Men and women had a lot of ruffles on their clothes
Neck cloths or cravat added
Waistcoat, sleeves or sleeveless; short than outer coat
Coat became wider
Coat cuffs wide [boot cuffs]
Breeches reached to knee; cut full [roomy/baggy] to allow movement [of the person]

1700-1750 Rich People

Formal wear coats lavishly embroidery; made of luxurious silks or velvet
Fabric of the coat is the same fabric of the breeches [very common for this level of luxury] - A lot of embroidery by hand [heavily embroidered coats for a more formal occasion]

1700-1750 Ditto suit

Coat, waistline, and breeches made out of the same fabric

1700-1750 Frock Coat

Casual, looser fit coat with flat, turned down collar. Worn for less formal occasions; not embroidered. Has a flat turned down collar. Worn for everyday occasions [less formal]

1750 Changes
Before 1750...

Waistcoat is more full and longer

1750 Changes
After 1750...

Waistcoat looks more like a vest - It's shorter [compared to before 1750]. The coats also start to curve more towards the back.

1750: Waistcoats got...

...shorts, beeches closely fitted, outer coat narrowed and curved back from the front

First half of 1750's...
Second half of 1750's...

Looser fit
Slimmer fit

1750-1800
What kind of coats were still being worn?

Frock coats and format coats

1750-1800: "Macaronis"—English men who adopted French and Italian fashions

They are trying to keep up with the current fashions
Derived from Macaroni Club
Young men who wore brightly colored silks, lace-trimmed coats, fashionable wigs, hats
"Stuck feather in hat, called it 'macaroni'" meant attempt to appear fashionable

1750-1800 Banyans

Loose colorful dressing gowns; worn at home and out-of-doors [on your estate]; Has an Asian and Middle East influence - Comfortable and casual - Just for relaxing

When and what do men wear when they take off their wig?

When relaxing, men may take off wig and wear embroidered nightcap

1700s: Important accessories for men

Tricorne - 3 Cornered Hat
Pocketbook
Wigs
[Black] Shoes with Gold Buckles

1700s: Shortgowns

Straight, un-fitted, washable tops worn with petticoat
Worn by working class, slaves and poor women
Also wore apron, kerchief at neck, and cap covering hair [puffy around the head]

1700 - 1720: Previous styles continue
Continuing on from the 1600's for women's fashion.....

There's more volume at the hips

1700 - 1720: Previous styles continue
Paniers

Supported wide skirt shape; called hoops in England - Around 1720 it begins to get wider and forms a wide skirt shape
Some are connected to the corset and others you had to tie around your waist. Some had hinges so you could lift it up to get through a doorway

18th Century: Undergarments

Chemise [white cotton garment which goes on first], stays [corset], under petticoat [put it over the Chemise], and a hoop [goes over the petticoat]

1715-1730:
1730-1760:
1760-1760:

- Loose fit
- Wider fit at waist
- Volume is more towards the back

1715-1730: Sacque

Wide, unfitted gown, worn unbelted and loose

Cont on Sacque...

Worn over dome-shaped hoop
Closed-front or open-front showing, showing the corset and/or petticoat. Most of them are closed in the front [tied up in the back]
Lack of formality at this time [looser fitting to the body]

1715-1730: Pet-en-Lair

Loose hip-length top; worn with separate, gathered skirt [wasn't considered work wear - casual wear that you could wear with a skirt] - Could be made from cotton or silk

1715 - 1730: Hairstyles: They were...

Simple
Hair was usually worn up

1710: Fontage style

[in front of the head made out of lace and it stood straight up] out of fashion
Hair powdered for formal occasions

1715-1730: Pinner Cap

Circular cap, single or double frills around edge [a circular cap] - These were popular
Places flat on head

1715-1730: Mob cap

High, puffed-out crown. Made out of white cotton fabric, or could be linen. Straw and silk hats also worn

1730-1760: Skirts less...

...round, wider from side to side

1730-1760 Robe a l' anglaise:

Gown with close fit in from and back
Most popular in England
Petticoat matches the gown usually
The back of the dress is very fitted against the body, but there's a wider silhouette

1730-1760 Robe a la Francaise:

Gown with full unfitted pleats at shoulder back; fitted front [it is open, so you can see the stomacher and the petticoat [contrasting]]
More popular in France

1730-1760 Both robe styles worn in...

England, France, and America

1730-1760 Gowns had...

open bodices and skirts; decorative stomacher, petticoat displayed

Stomacher

is the top piece in the center [yellow] - It's a centerpiece and is covering your undergarments - TIes on the side of the stomacher or buttons and it's tied to the inside of the gown]

V-Shaped stomacher

highly ornamented with embroidery, lace, ribbon [these will all add to your status if you have orme money to add more to the gown]
Formal gown, petticoat made from same fabric; appear as one garment

Engageants

One or more ruffles at end of sleeve [white section and ruffles at the end of the sleeves of the gown]

Sleeves ended below elbow
Necklines low and square or oval
Image shows popular hairstyle [little curls hanging down]

[Created by Marie Ant.] Hairstyle: Tete de mouton

Hairstyle of close, tight curls, "sheep's head"

Shepherdess Hat

Large, flat straw hat; low crown, wide brim [trickle up trend - Hat worn by lower class women working in the fields [protect you from the sun] and Maria A. sees this and starts to wear it and it becomes a trends.

Shepherdess Hat cont.....

Worn outdoors
Tied over or under brim under chin
Other hats: tricorne hat or jockey cap [riding]

1760-1790: Skirt fullness shifted....

..to the back

1760-1790 Cont...

Bodice front had puffed appearance [have extra scarves around your neck and they would get tucked in the bodice fabric]
Scarves tucked into necklines

1760-1790 Polonaise

Gown with overskirt puffed [puffy in the back] and looped using tapes and rings [in back] sewn into skirt and you could make it any shape you want [day wear style of dress[
Hoop or bustle support
Replaced robe a la Francaise except for formal dress

1760-1790 Cloak

Most practical outdoor garment to wear with wide skirts [there would be slits in them if you needed to get your arms out to do something, but there weren't normally any sleeves]

1760-1790 Calash

Folding hood-like hat. Worn outdoors; fit over high hairstyles. You can fold it out and if you weren't wearing it it would collapse and fall and hang from a tie at the back of your neck

1770s Hairstyles...

...became enormous; ridiculed by cartoonists

1770s: Hair supplemented with...

feathers, jewels, ribbons or hat placed on top [anything that went on the event that was going on] - Very into decorating the hair

1780s: [Created by Marie A.] Hedgehog hairstyle

Hair curled full and wide around face, long locks hanging down back; hair height diminished [not popular anymore to have super tall hairstyles]; large hats set on top

1780-1800: [Created by Marie A.] Chemise a la reine

white muslin gown. Resembled chemise but had a waistline.
Soft, gathered skirt
Muslin imported from India; soft, cotton, expensive [very soft and luxurious cotton]
Forerunner of 19th century styles

1780-1800: [Created and made popular by Marie Antoinette] Chemise a la reine

Played "country folk"
Started peasant-style fashion

1700s: Notable Women's Accessories
Tie Pockets

worn under skirt for carrying items [side of skirts had slits in them so you could put your hands in them - they would carry the tie pockets here because they were tied on the inside of the waist

1700s: Notable Women's Accessories
Sun Parasols

Didn't want a sigh of sun on the skin [that meant you were lower class] so they used these to block the sun

1700s: Notable Women's Accessories
Shoes with matching clogs

[or a little bit of a heel], raise feet off muddy ground

1700s: Notable Women's Accessories
Fans

No air conditioning [had hand fan to help cool you off]

1700-1750: Children's Dress
Infants were...

...swaddled [tied very tightly in a lot of fabric

1700-1750: Children's Dress
Babies - 6 or 7 year old:

boys/girls wore skirts

1700-1750: Children's Dress
After 6 or 7:

boys/girls wore adult styles [wore what the adults wore]
With girls, they started to wear corsets around 10 years old

1750-1800: Around 1750, Philosophers suggest...

practical, comfortable clothing for children; better for health and development [allow them to run, move, and play]

1750-1800: So....

Stopped swaddling babies
1780: Boys 7 or 8 years old wore trousers, shirt, and jacket [more room for movement]
Girls same age wore white muslin dresses [that Marie Ant. created and made popular]
Boys/Girls age 12 to 13 years old wore adult styles [pre-teen ages]
There's an age range that kids could be kids and then after a certain age [around pre-teen] they had to start dressing like the adults

Romantic Period c. 1820 - 1850
Arts/literature

Arts/literature—Emphasized emotion, sentiment, and feeling [a romantic time period]

Romantic Period c. 1820 - 1850
Values imagination over...

rational thought [more of an imaginative time period]

Historic past gave inspiration

Reaction against formal Classical styles of 17th/18th centuries

France [Historical dates]

Monarchy

1814: Louis the 18th became king; granted written constitution

In 1824, Charles 10th became king, Louis's brother

July 1830: 2nd French Revolution

1830 French Revolution
Leaders were supporters of...

...rebellious spirit of Romanticism [rebellious movement happening within the social classes]

1830 French Revolution
Men expressed rebellion with...

political actions and dress [seeing popularity of red, white and blue, embellishments, sashes, etc.]

1830 French Revolution
Wore clothes of...

...working-class, not fashionable men

England [Historical dates]

1820: King George 4th; unpopular King

1830: William 4th succeeded his brother and becomes king

1837: William died without heir; 18 year old Victoria became queen

Ruled until 1901; gave name to an age [Victorian age - Victorian houses and clothing, etc]

Restored prestige of monarchy [people looked up to her - seen as a great wife who took care of children, etc]

During 1800s, America expanded westward

We have the development of the railroads, gold rush is on, etc

Southern U.S - Cotton cultivation dominated economy..

Cotton cultivation dominated economy [The looms were becoming more mechanized and then yarn spinning, so they needed cotton at a faster rate for fashion]
created need for labor to work cotton plantations
Stimulated slave trade in America

19th Century Upper-class Women [Romantic Period]
Unstylish to appear...

...in good health [stylish to look sickly]

Circles under eyes fashionable; rice powder gave pale look [it became popular to look unhealthy]

Home center of entertainment; well-to-do women hostesses for husbands

19th Century Working-Class and Pioneer Women [Romantic Period]
Garments more practical made of...

...lower quality fabric [clothes that you would work in - no luxury fabrics] Cotton was popular for these non luxury fabrics

19th Century Working-Class and Pioneer Women [Romantic Period]
Dresses followed....

basic fashionable silhouette [a lot of gathers and puffiness]

Fashionable bonnet transformed into sunbonnet; protect from sun

Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles
1840

handmade lace patterns now machine-made [go from handmade to machine made, the cost is lowered and more people can purchase it]

Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles
Lace trimmings/fabrics available...

at low cost [so they become popular again]

Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles
Ready-made clothing widely available for...

...men [not for women yet. For war times, the body measurements they already had, they started making ready made clothing for them, but the women didn't have that yet]

Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles
Women could buy...

...few ready-made garments other than corsets and cloaks

1830s: 1st...

American fashion magazines published

Problems with Fashion Plates
Shows "proposed" style; not always...

...mainstream fashion [wide and extreme fashions, like editorials nowadays] - not always the mainstream for everyday people

Problems with Fashion Plates
Engraved picture tinted...

...with water colors; less info about fabric texture [shiny? Dull? Silk? Velvet? But with oil paints you have a better idea of these]

Painters run out of one color, substitute another

1840s: Photography documented how people dressed
Positive

- Have a better idea of what people looked like in the clothing

1840s: Photography documented how people dressed
Negatives

- Just upper classes could afford to have their photo taken - so we mostly have images of upper class
- Don't have movement with what it looked like
- Always nice clothing used in photos, so all the fashion was nice and formal wear

Historic Pieces as Costume Evidence
More plentiful than earlier periods

[gives us more garments to study] - to know the actual popular colors and fabrics

Historic Pieces as Costume Evidence
Most are wedding dresses..

.., ball gowns, special event clothing [special occasions]

Historic Pieces as Costume Evidence
Fewer everyday...

..dresses, men's and children's clothing in museum collections

1820 to 1825: Transition from...

Empire silhouette to new Romantic mode
Around 1820-1825 the fashion is a little blurry because it's transitioning - from empire waistline to romantic style

1825: Romantic Style Established

Waistline moved downward inches above natural waist

Large sleeves [and strange hairstyles]

Skirts wide and shorter [you can almost see the ankle]

19th Century: Drawers more common; worn by all social classes

Undergarments stayed the same - Drawers are the same in all classes of women.
They are slit in the center so it's easy to use the restroom

19th Century: Chemise [still popular] ...

..next layer; wide & short sleeved
Changes based off of style of goal that goes over it. It is now getting wider and has shorter sleeves

1820-1835: Stays...

..laced tightly; emphasis on small waist
Stays [corset] still worn - a small waistline is popular again

19th Century: Corset cover or..

..camisole worn over corset
No gowns with a stomacher - Next garment worn is a corset cover or camisole [worn over corset to cover it up]

19 Century: Full, starched..

petticoats supported wider skirt
You wear several layers of petticoat [if made of cotton, add starch and it makes it stiffer and makes it stand out more]

1820-1835: Undergarments held out skirts and sleeves

In order to get big sleeve shape, you wore sleeve pads. You tie around your shoulder or upper arm and this would go inside sleeve to help your sleeves stick out.
Bustle pads were popular, too. Ties around waist and extra padding goes above butt to help it stick up more

1820-1835: Bodices had...

wide, V-shaped revers [extra piece of fabric that goes over bodice and sleeves] from shoulder to waist in front/back

1828:
1829-1833:
1834:

- Skirts start to show feet/ankles
- Straight waistline with belt or sash
- V-shaped point at waist front

1830s: Pelerine

wide, cape-like collar [on top of bodice]

Extended over shoulders and down across chest

Notice V-waistline

1820-1835: Several sleeve styles
Marie Sleeve

Full to wrist, tied to intervals with ribbons/bands [you get puffy sections from pulling in the fabric] - larger puffs are at the top and then it continues down the sleeve

1820-1835: Several sleeve styles
Demi-gigot sleeve:

Full from shoulder to elbow [giant puff at top of sleeve]

Fitted from elbow to wrist

1820-1835: Several sleeve styles
Gigot/Leg-of-mutton sleeve:

Full at shoulder; gradual decrease in size [comes in and out of fashion - doesn't last long]
Ends in fitted cuff at wrist

1820-1835: Several sleeve styles
Imbecile/idiot sleeves:

- Extremely full from shoulder to wrist
- Gathered into fitted cuff
- Similar to sleeves on "strait jacket" of the time

1820-1835: Pelisse—preferred ...

... outdoor garment [coat]
Now the coat must have giant sleeves to wear it over the dress

1820-1835: Popular Hairstyles
1820s:

tight curls around face; pulled into knot/bun in back

1820-1835: Popular Hairstyles
1829:

Style á la Chinoise [ah la shen-wahs] - tight curls around forehead and temples, flowers, and a tight knot on the top of the head [sometimes fake/add on hair]

1820-1835: Popular Hats

Day caps worn indoors
Hats had large brims, feathers and lace

Bonnets framed face, tied under chin

1820-1835: Popular Hats
Capote bonnet

Soft fabric crown, stiff brim

1820-1835: Popular Hats
Evening

Berets and turbans worn

[Second portion of time] 1836-1850: Sleeve..

...fullness moved down arm; to the bottom of the sleeve

1836-1850: Trimmings include ruchings, ...

...flounces, scallops, cording [decorative embellishment that is more narrow and has a thickness to it]

1836-1850:...

Some skirts many rows of flounces

Evening—Off shoulder necklines [ONLY evening]

1836-1850: Bertha

wide, deep collar followed neckline

1836-1850: Popular Hairstyles and Hats

Hairstyle with sausage curls
Hairstyle with loops
Bonnet with veil
Drawn Bonnet - more circular shape and framing the face and stiffer
[Hair gets a little bit longer]

Accessories 19th Century

Chatelaines: Carry in handbag or attach in waistline of petticoats - had sewing tools that you might need
Reticules: Small handbags
Shoes: Ballet flat style
Boots: Popular for horse back riding
Gloves and fingerless mitts

1820-1850: Men's silhouette...

..faint echo of women's silhouette [volume at shoulders and hips]

1820-1850: Men's Narrow waist

[men wore corsets at this time to have a narrow waist]

1820-1850: Men's flared coat skirt

[man in center and little boy are showing this style - seam at waistline and then it flares out]

1820-1850: Sleeves

Slight fullness of sleeves

1829-1850: Corsets and padding worn..

[wanted chest to come out a little bit, as well as padding in legs]

1820-1840: Frock coats ...

worn mostly for daytime [casual look - blue jacket below], skirt extended below waist

1820-1840: Tailcoats..

worn most for evening [green jacket]

Short in front with extended tails at back

Waistcoat, trousers, shirt and drawers also worn

1820-1840 Cont...

Garments that are made to be worn specifically for daytime and other for evening
Bottom of trousers in worn on inside of the shoes to help keep the trousers in place
Top hats are still popular

1840-1850: Men's styles, like women's...

became more subdued [less volume, more fitted]
- Sleeves fit smoother [following shape of the arm]
- Frock coat skirts shorter and narrow
- Waistcoats longer, point at front
[Outer wear in this image - Men are wearing capes [very popular]

1820-1850: Outdoors men wore...

greatcoats [overcoats] or cloaks for more formal occasions [longer than a cape]

1829-1850 Men's Accessories

Top hat
Derby/Bowler hat
Cravats [mostly black, sometimes white. Gives emphasis to the neck]

1820-1850: Children ...

dressed like adults. Small boys wore skirts until age 4 or 5.
Except small boys who wore dresses until 4 or 5 [boys and girls until 4 or 5 looked very similar]
Older children outside to fashion plate are more adult styles
Girls have panteletts [shown lower than skirts]

North American Slave Clothing

Info from newspaper notices, interviews, diaries, journals, plantation inventories, photos on what they were wearing [in case they ran away, they could send out a notice with this information]

Negro cloth

coarse, white homespun fabric [mostly cotton]

North American Slave Clothing
Fabrics...

...not dyed; some slaves dyed fabric with natural dyestuffs [plants and berries]

North American Slave Clothing
House slaves ...

...were dressed more fashionable [than field slaves]

North American Slave Clothing
Conforming

Slaves tried to conform to current fashion [field slaves saw what the house slaves and plantation owners were wearing, and they tried to keep up with that fashion]

North American Slave Clothing cont....

Skirt hoops made from grapevines, thin tree limbs or stiff paper

Runaway slaves dressed like freed slaves [fashionable - to appear free so they wouldn't be caught]

Took more fashionable clothing on their journey [to look free]

Once freed, dressed as other Americans

The Crinoline Period c. 1850-1869
Style lines of women's dress:

Waist is in a V
Still being corseted in to a small waist line
A lot of volume at the skirt
Similar to romantic period

1857: Innovation of the...

..Cage Crinoline or Hoop Skirt. Contributed to continued popularity of wide skirts

1857: Cartoonists...

..found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor

Before cage crinoline...

..women's rights advocates attempted to reform women's dress with bloomer dress. [They were trying to reform what was fashionable]

Amelia Bloomer

Amelia Bloomer [in left image]
She was one of the dress reformers
The bloomer costume was a short length dress/skirt and Turkish trousers were worn underneath it [still modest and completely covered]
Gave you easier movement

What women thought at the time about the bloomer dress

Fashion women at time thought this looked ridiculous and it didn't take off as a fashion
So they gave it up after time and started dressing fashionably again to be taken seriously

Bloomer dress: Few women...

...outside feminist movement wore bloomers.

Feminists willingly discarded Bloomer costume.

Feminists: They discarded it because they weren't taken very seriously if they wore it [seen as not fashionable, not following trends] - So they went back to the regular fashion

Crinoline Period
Women's under drawers were...

made of cotton with crotch left open, knee-length , and trimmed at hem
[open at center]

Crinoline Period
Chemise...

worn over the under drawers. Now with shorter sleeves and wider neckline
- Chemise always follows the style lines of the dress you are going to put over it

Crinoline Period
Combination

Widely accepted underclothing; Combined the chemise and drawers into 1 garment
[Putting drawers and garment together
If you wore this, you wouldn't wear the chemise]
It buttoned up the front

Crinoline Period
Over the chemise...

...went the corset
Corsets still worn
Corset went over chemise [depending on which one you are wearing]

Crinoline Period
Camisole or corset cover went...

...over the corset
Gets popular during the Romantic period and continues on
So you have the under garments covered

Crinoline Period
Next...

...the hoop was added
After cage crinoline - add it over your under garments

Crinoline Period
Petticoat

Single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel.
Petticoat goes over the hoop [you don't want it showing under your gown]
They would not show under the dress
Still popular
Very basic [white or off white]

Crinoline Period
Dresses usually were 2 pieces with...
Daytime dresses...

..a full gathered or pleated skirt and dropped shoulder
...had high necks with long open sleeves; removable collars and cuffs

Crinoline Period
Evening dresses

Evening dresses had off-the-shoulder neckline, often with a wide bertha [wide collar around the neckline [popular]]
Short sleeves
Skirts trimmed with flowers, ribbons or lace
Lace used: popular in romantic period [wide variety, cheaper, more people used it]

Crinoline Period
Women's outdoor garments

Striped or Kashmir shawls, short jackets, cape or mantle [short or long]

Crinoline Period
outdoor garments similarities and explanations

1800 [empire period] - Shawls [also popular in romantic period] - They don't go away
Nice and easy to put over all the volume

Short jackets become popular [works with the big skirts] [middle image]

Mantels [far right image] - shorter version of a cape

Crinoline Period Accessories
Under Sleeves

A way of mixing and matching outfits to make them look different [attach to the inside of sleeves]
Also have different types of collars or bibs to change up the neck line

Crinoline Period Accessories
Shoes/boots

There's a little bit of a heel

Crinoline Period Accessories
Parasol

Very fashionable to be as pale as possible [no hard labor - protect yourself from the sun]

Crinoline Period Accessories
Miser Purse

This one is closed [there's a slit in the center on one side and two rings] - to close the slit, put the two rings in the center and the coins going to the ends [you can hang it over your wrist or your belt]

Crinoline Period Accessories
Jewelry

A lot of gold jewelry - bracelets and necklaces
A lot of jewelry made out of hair [a way to remember people that have died]

Crinoline Period
Men's undergarments included

under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt.
[Their under drawers are a little longer than the women's
Undershirts are popular especially if it's cold outside]

Crinoline Period
Men's undergarment cont...

Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.
A plan white shirt is placed over
Bow ties are becoming popular for men in this time period
White shirt: Cotton or linen

Crinoline Period
Over that...

...trousers, held up by suspenders
Instep strap disappeared [that held up trousers]
Striped and checked fabrics popular
[Pants are getting looser for men's clothing [clothing in general]
No more strap into boot - to hold pants up they are using suspenders]

Crinoline Period
Next a...

a waistcoat/vest

Crinoline Period
Men chose from several jacket types
Dress/Tailcoat:
Frock Coat:
Sack jacket:

- Tails in back
- Skirt feature to it
- Straight without any waist line seam

Crinoline Period
For outdoors [men]

variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats
Cloaks and capes are still popular
Over coats are still popular
Right Image: Overcoats might have a skirt to it with a waistline or they might be more straight
Sleeves are more fitted during this time period

Crinoline Period
Men's Hats
Top Hat

Also in romantic period

Crinoline Period
Men's Hats
Wide Awake Hat

Because brim is so big if you tried to fall asleep, the brim would wake you up because it would hit the table

Crinoline Period
Men's Hats
Casual Cap

Fits tight against head

Crinoline Period
Men's Hats
Derby/Bowler

Newer fashion

Crinoline Period
Men's Hats
Stetson

New fashion [Western style - because there was more travel to the Western areas]

Crinoline Period
Men's Accessories
Suspenders

New fashion [could be embroidered or plaid]

Crinoline Period
Men's Accessories
Pocket watches and Fob

Watch fob could be made out of hair

Crinoline Period
Men's Accessories
Ties

Popular and also different styles of bow ties

Crinoline Period
Children's dress

Boy and girl toddles wore skirts
Older children dressed as adults
[didn't change much]

Crinoline Period
1858: Opening of House of Worth in Paris

British-born Charles Worth began high fashion dressmaking
Became know as Haute Couture
[Could have dresses made exactly to your measurements
Very expensive
Only very wealthy could do this]

Crinoline Period
Military conflicts inspired some styles: Garibaldi Blouse

adapted from red shirts worn by Italian General Garibaldi's soldiers
[Red becomes a popular color during this time
Red shirts that soldiers were wearing
Incorporated it into women's and kids wear for blouses
And men wore the color too]

Crinoline Period
Military conflicts inspired some styles
Zouave Jacket

Adopted by American Civil War regiment, then women's fashion

Crinoline Period
Women had costumes for bathing and horseback riding

Outfits related to activities was common
Wealthy individuals have bathing costumes at the beach for vacations
Women riding side saddle [so for the costume the skirt would be longer in the front rather than the back which is short so they look the same length while riding]

The Bustle Period c. 1870-1890

Named after the predominant feature of women's dresses

The Bustle Period
Textile Technology

Fabrics better, less expensive

Power looms replaced hand looms

Synthetic dyes replaced natural dyes

Silk weighted with salts; added body

Wears out fabric; damages yarns

The Bustle Period
Clothing production and consumption began to change

- Wide use of sewing machines [invented 1800s]
- Development of sized paper patterns
- Technology: Cutting many garment pieces at same time

The Bustle Period
Influx of immigrants provided...

..workers and consumers for the clothing industry

The Bustle Period
Department stores [1860's and mail order catalogs [1872; 1893] provided...

...new ways of selling clothing

The Bustle Period
1850-1900: Mourning Dress
Both Europe and United States
1861

Death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria wore mourning dress rest of her life

Deep mourning for year + day

The Bustle Period
Mourning Dress

Black crepe-covered dress, maybe black underwear

Black gloves and a black crepe veil worn when in public [seldom]

Wedding band, mourning brooch; lock of loved one's hair; black jet jewelry

The Bustle Period
Undergarments continued to include same elements

Underdrawers
Chemise
Corset
Corset Cover

The Bustle Period
Combination

Combination—widely accepted underclothing; combined drawers/chemise into 1 garment

Bustle

Bustle—new structure to support skirt with full back

1870-1890 Three different bustle shapes worn
1870-1878 1st bustle

created by manipulating full skirt in a waterfall-like effect, often with a train;
Daytime bodice jacket style, high neck, fitted sleeve, basque

1870-1878:
Evening bodice—decorative fabric, greater ornamentation

Off-shoulder necklines and sleeveless or short sleeves or elbow-length sleeves with ruffles
Necklines low and square, V-shape or round

1878-1883: Sheath or cuirass bodice—2nd bustle type;
fullness dropped to below back of knees

Long jacket ending at point in front

Long heavily trained skirts fit smoothly over hips

Semi-circular frame supported trailing skirts

Decoration concentrated low, back of skirt

1883-1890: Final bustle type

rigid and shelf-like
Skirt rarely had a train and feet visible

1883-1890: Bodices fitted jacket-style with ...

...short basques, polonaise bodices or belted over blouses

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